Grasmere to Rydal Cave Walk: An 8k Lakes Day by Campervan

Late October, and a simple plan for the day: start in Grasmere, walk up to Rydal Cave, go up and over the fell and finish with a sit down at the Badger Bar in Rydal. It came out at about 8k, and with plenty of photo stops (and one very important bench) it took us about three hours. Here is how it went, plus the van tips we wish someone had given us first.

The walk at a glance

• Distance: about 8km (roughly 5 miles), the way we walked it.
• Time: about three hours for us, with lots of stops. Allow longer with little legs.
• Start: Grasmere.
• Finish: the Badger Bar at the Glen Rothay Hotel, Rydal, on the A591.
• Highlights: stepping stones, bracken valleys, Rydal Cave, big views over Rydal Water and a 400 year old pub at the end.
• Underfoot: stony paths, wet slate around the cave, open fell and a long run of stone steps on the way down.
• Type: one way, so you need a plan to get back to the van (more on that below).

First things first: where to leave the van

Lakes roads are narrow and the car parks fill up early on a nice day, so the best tip we can give is to get parked properly before you even think about lacing your boots.

• Use a proper car park. Park in a car park, not on the verge. Check the signs for height limits, time limits and overnight rules before you walk off. They vary, and they do change.
• Don’t sleep in a car park or a layby. The Lake District National Park says the only legal places to stay overnight in a campervan or motorhome are formal campsites. Book a site and leave the van there or use it as your base.
• Don’t block the lanes. The National Park also warns that badly parked vehicles on narrow roads can stop emergency vehicles getting through. If it looks tight, it is.
• Want a shorter day? The two usual starts for just the cave are the White Moss car parks off the A591 between Rydal and Grasmere (private car parks with number plate cameras, so pay for your whole stay before you leave) and the small Pelter Bridge car park at Rydal, which the National Park says is often very busy. Neither is the start of our 8k, but both get you to the cave in well under an hour.
• The pub car park is for customers. The Badger Bar has a big car park, but please don’t leave the van there all day for a walk.

The route, the way we walked it

We are not giving turn by turn directions here. Take a proper map or a mapping app and check the weather before you go. This is what the day looked like.

Grasmere and the stepping stones

We set off around midday. Early on there are stepping stones across the river, which is a lovely start with kids (and a good test of whose boots actually grip). From there the path heads into a valley of rusty orange bracken and dry stone walls, with the fells sitting in the mist above you.

Up to Rydal Cave

The path climbs steadily and the views open up quickly over the water. You know you are close when you reach the slate spoil heaps with little stacks of stones on top. Those stacks are built by visitors, so enjoy them but don’t add to them.

Then the cave. Rydal Cave is not a natural cave. It is a former slate quarry on the north side of Loughrigg Fell, above Rydal Water. The mouth is huge and there is a shallow pool across the entrance with stepping stones leading in. Inside, the roof feels like a cathedral. Walk to the back and look out through the entrance: that is the shot everybody wants.

Rydal Cave tips:

• It is open access, with no tickets and no opening times. You simply walk up.
• The pool is a paddling pool, not a swimming pool. It is shallow, and the stones and slate are slippery when wet.
• Grippy footwear matters more here than anywhere else on the walk.
• A torch or phone light helps with your footing on a dull day.
• It gets busy. We were there around half twelve on a late October weekday and there were plenty of people on the stepping stones, so be patient and keep an eye on the kids near the water.
• There is no pushchair access to the cave itself.

Up and over the fell

From the cave we carried on up and over the big hill behind it. This is the hard bit of the day: a proper climb through bracken and grass onto rocky ground. The cloud rolled in while we were up there, which made it moodier rather than worse, and the view from the summit rocks down over Rydal Water and its little wooded island was the moment of the day.

If the weather turns, this is the section to rethink. Fell tops get cloud quickly, and it is colder and windier up there than it is in the valley.

The steps down

The way down is a long run of stone pitched steps. They are good steps, but they are hard on the knees, and in the wet they are slippy. Walking poles earn their keep here. Lower down there is a bench in the bracken with a view of the lake, and yes, we used it.

After that it gets gentler: water rushing over a weir by the lake, woods, a little waterfall over mossy rocks, a stone church, and then the pub sign.

The finish: the Badger Bar, Rydal

The Badger Bar is part of the Glen Rothay Hotel on the A591 at Rydal. The building started life as an inn called David’s Inn in 1624, and the bar is in the oldest part. Expect wonky floors, open fires, local real ales and a properly cosy feel. The pub says dogs and children are welcome, which is exactly what you want at the end of a muddy walk. And yes, the name is earned: badgers come out after dark in the grounds.

Opening and food times change with the seasons, so check the Glen Rothay website before you set off if you are planning lunch.

Getting back to the van

This is a one way walk, so sort your return before you start, not after your second pint.

• Walk it. The Grasmere Trail links Ambleside and Grasmere along the shores of Rydal Water, and the National Park says you can walk or cycle it.
• Bus it. The National Park says Rydal Water is accessible by public transport. Check the timetable on the day, especially out of season.
• Make it a loop. Prefer to end up back at the van? Start from the White Moss car parks, or base yourself on a campsite you can walk from.

Van tips for a Lakes walking day

• Get there early. We cannot say this enough. A van in a tight car park at 11am is nobody’s idea of fun.
• Layers, waterproofs and a flask. The valley and the summit felt like two different days.
• Wet kit plan. An old towel, a boot tray or a big bag for muddy boots keeps the van floor (and your bed) clean.
• Check the mountain forecast. If you are going over the top, look at the Met Office mountain forecast for the Lake District as well as the normal one.
• Leave nothing behind. Take your rubbish home, keep dogs close near livestock and leave gates as you find them.

Planning a bigger Lakes trip?

Our Campervan guide to the Lake District covers the towns, campsites and more walks. If you are heading up in the colder months, have a look at UK campsites open through winter and our winter campervan camping guide. And for parking with a clear conscience, read how to be a good van neighbour.

Fancy swapping fells for a field full of vans? Dubbed Out 2027 tickets go on sale on 31 January 2027. Sign up to the newsletter at dubbedoutfestival.co.uk to hear first.

 

SEO title: Grasmere to Rydal Cave Walk: An 8k Lakes Day by Campervan
Slug: grasmere-rydal-cave-walk-campervan
Focus keyphrase: Rydal Cave walk
Meta description: Our 8k walk from Grasmere to Rydal Cave, up and over the fell and down to the 400 year old Badger Bar. Route notes, cave tips and van parking advice.
Tags: Lake District, Rydal Cave, Grasmere, Rydal Water, Walks, Pubs, Campervan Travel, Family Days Out, Autumn
Excerpt: Stepping stones, a slate cavern you can walk into, misty fell top views and a 400 year old pub at the finish. Here is our 8k Grasmere to Rydal Cave walk, with the van tips we wish we had known first.
Featured image: grasmere-rydal-cave-walk-featured-summit-view.jpg (alt: View from rocky summit over Rydal Water and its wooded island under low autumn cloud)